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Central heating leak sealer: what it can and cannot do

Central heating leak sealer is a liquid sold to close small weeps from inside a heating system. It cannot show where the water was going, and it can stop leak testing working, so have the boiler and pipes checked before you reach for a bottle.

Hands tightening a new joint on a copper pipe in the void under lifted floorboards

What central heating leak sealer is sold to do

Central heating leak sealer is a liquid you add to the water inside your heating system. It is sold to travel round with the water, find small weeps and close them from the inside, so the system stops losing pressure without being emptied. What it cannot do is show you where the water was going, or what that water has already reached.

People usually buy a bottle when the boiler needs topping up more often than it should. Many boilers sit at around 1 to 1.5 bar on the gauge with the system cold, and your boiler manual gives the right figure for yours. If you are bringing it back up every few days, water is leaving the system somewhere, and adding sealer is aimed at that loss without anyone having seen where it is.

Why it does not tell you where the leak is

Sealer works blind. It circulates through the whole system, so nothing records where it acted, or whether it acted at all. If the pressure then holds for a while, you still do not know whether the leak was at a radiator valve, a joint under the floorboards or a pipe buried in a concrete floor, and each of those has a different repair.

That matters because heating water that escapes does not disappear. Under a solid floor it can soak into the screed, the layer of sand and cement laid over the concrete, and spread before anything shows. Under timber floors it can wet joists and the ceiling below. A leak that slows but does not stop can carry on like that out of sight, with the pressure gauge as the only clue.

Why we ask whether sealer has been added

When you ring about a heating leak, expect three questions: how often you refill the system, whether its pipes lie under timber boards or in concrete, and whether any sealant has gone into the system. That last question is there because sealant can stop testing working. Please mention it when you book and, if you know, roughly how long ago it went in and how much was used. A photo of the bottle helps.

Each of our tests depends on the leak still letting something out. Pressure testing watches for a fall on a gauge once a section is closed off. Tracer gas, a hydrogen and nitrogen mix, has to escape at the hole to be picked up at the surface. Thermal imaging looks for warm water spreading where it should not be. A hole that sealer has partly closed may let out too little to show, so readings can look quieter than the leak really is.

Signs the leak needs finding rather than sealing

Some signs suggest the escaping water is reaching the fabric of the house, or that the leak is more than a weep. When you see them, the useful next step is finding the point, so the repair can start in the right place before the damage spreads further. These are the signs to look out for:

The gauge needs bringing back up every few days, or sooner

The pressure kept falling after sealer went in

A warm patch on a tiled or concrete floor

A damp mark near a radiator pipe, or a stain on the ceiling below

An engineer has passed the boiler, yet the pressure still drops

Talk to your heating engineer first

Before you search for the best central heating leak sealer, ask a heating engineer to look at the boiler. Pressure can fall for reasons that have nothing to do with a leaking pipe: a pressure relief valve letting water out through the small pipe that runs from the boiler to an outside wall, for example, or an expansion vessel that has lost its charge. Neither of those is a leak in the pipework.

Ask the engineer, too, whether anything should go into your system at all. Boiler instructions may say what can and cannot be added to the heating water, and the engineer will know what is in there already. If you do go ahead, the product's own instructions explain how to use central heating leak sealer in your kind of system. Keep the bottle, so you can tell us what went in.

How a heating leak is found

Everything begins with the history: how often you refill, how far the pressure drops, where the pipes go and whether sealant is in the water. Before you book, the price is settled over the phone or by email. It pays for up to a half or full day's testing, and it does not drop if the leak shows itself early. Our no find, no fee on home water leaks does not cover central heating, so we say so at the start; full conditions are on our terms page.

On the day we close off parts of the system and pressure test them to narrow down where water is being lost. With the heating warm, thermal imaging picks out hot water spreading under a floor or behind a wall. A second method, such as tracer gas, has to agree with the first before the place is marked and photographed. The written report, made for a trace and access claim, is sent after full payment for the visit.

Mending the leaking pipe is usually something we can take on too, quoted separately. Repairs are guaranteed for 3 months, covering the pipework and fittings we install. If we give a repair price before we start, it only holds when the pipe is fixed on the day of the detection. If a floor has to be opened, the marked spot is the best place to start.

Common questions

It depends on how much the sealer has slowed the leak, so tell us before the visit and we will talk it through. Sealant can stop testing working, which may limit what the tests show on the day. If the system is still losing pressure at a steady rate, though, water is still escaping somewhere, and that gives the tests something to work with.

For thermal imaging, yes. The camera picks up warmth, so the pipes need hot water running through them. Pressure testing and tracer gas do not depend on the system being warm. When you book, check with us whether the heating should be running before the visit, because it depends on where the pipes run and which method we expect to start with.

Not while searching. We work from the surface and mark the spot, so if the floor must come up for the repair, opening starts at the mark. The mark is our best reading of the leak’s position, and it only becomes certain once the pipe is uncovered. That is why we look for two separate readings pointing to the same place before any mark goes down.

Note the gauge after topping up, with the heating cold, and again at the same time the next day. Tell us both figures, how often you have had to top up lately and whether the loss changes with the heating on or off. That history helps us choose where to start and how long the visit needs.

Read your policy before booking. Trace and access cover, the part of a policy that deals with finding a hidden leak, comes with some home policies but not all, and some insurers want to give the go-ahead before anyone starts. Tell them what you have noticed, when the pressure loss started and what has been checked so far. Our written report gives the location, methods, readings and photographs, and whether to pay out is the insurer’s call alone.

Boiler losing pressure again?

Call 07700 102 008 with your top-up history and whether sealer has gone in. Lines are open 8am to 8pm, every day.